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by Charlotte Yao
Wuyi Rock Tea earns its unparalleled status in the world of Chinese tea from the unique mineral-rich Danxia landform where its tea bushes thrive. Yet, it takes more than terroir to achieve excellence—mastery of intricate craftsmanship is essential to unlock its full character.
In China, Wuyi tea is known as the “King of Teas”, a title earned through the harmonious combination of nature’s gift and human artistry. The term “yan yun” (岩韵)—rock rhyme—captures the deep mineral complexity and lingering fragrance of fine Wuyi tea, a result of both earth and fire.
In 1993, inside a tea-roasting hut nestled in the mountains of Wuyishan, 26-year-old Liu Dexi was carefully tending to charcoal embers, learning to master the roast. Covered in sweat from the intense heat, he was being trained by Liu Baoshun, a revered Intangible Cultural Heritage (ICH) inheritor. Liu Dexi wasn’t born into a tea family—but his relentless curiosity and humility led him to study, listen, and observe with devotion.
“Fire must breathe,” Master Liu warned. “Too strong, and the tea loses its soul; too weak, and its aroma cannot be awakened.”
Seven years of fire discipline refined his instinct for the moment a leaf releases its aroma, for the precise crackle when it transforms into amber treasure. In 1999, he began training in primary processing under another master, Liu Guoying. After another five years of study, he became one of the few to have mastered the full spectrum of Wuyi tea craftsmanship— from fresh leaf to final cup.
In 2015, Master Liu Dexi was officially recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage Inheritor of Wuyi Rock Tea.
Among the eighteen officially recognized masters of Wuyi Yan Cha — affectionately known as the “Eighteen Arhats” — Liu’s tea stands out for its balance of fiery backbone and floral nuance. Each master’s tea bears their personal story, experience, and philosophy.
“A tea must have bones, and the tea maker must, too.”
His round face and ears resemble a traditional Luohan statue — considered auspicious in Chinese culture. True to form, he’s often seen smiling gently. Every afternoon, when not traveling, he goes to pick up his granddaughter from school, hand-in-hand, with warmth that extends to family, disciples, and tea visitors alike.
“Learn, always learn. We’re all here to learn from each other.”
But beneath that warmth lies unyielding discipline. “A Bodhisattva in the heart, a Vajra in the craft,” he says. His strictness is reserved only for tea.
From the first thunderclap of spring that awakens the buds, every step of the six-month production process is a relay of dedication. When others rest after harvest, Liu moves into tea judging season, often serving as lead judge in major competitions, meticulously evaluating hundreds of teas with absolute focus and fairness.
His daughter Liu Yuan, now a tea master herself, often assists during these events. “He’s always being invited,” she laughs, “but his standard never changes.”
In 2016, Liu founded the brand Dexi Valley (德兮谷), named after a Confucian quote: “A gentleman is close to virtue, skilled in crafting tea from secluded valleys.”
His gardens lie deep in Wuyi’s protected scenic area, where tea trees grow wild among pine and bamboo, rooted in mineral-rich cliffs. No chemicals are used — soybeans are intercropped, pine forest soil is returned, and the ecosystem is nourished.
“The mountains give us everything. We must give back.”
Liu’s daughter, Liu Yuan, spent her childhood playing in the tea mountains, learning to identify wild herbs, flowers, and insects with her father. Liu Yuan, raised on those mountains, now brings her daughter up the same paths. “As a child, I used to complain. Now I realize it was the greatest gift: a way to stay rooted, calm, and connected to nature.”
She honors her father’s legacy of heavy fire roasting — teas like Iron Luohan (铁罗汉) are his signature works, revealing floral-fruity complexity over time. But she also brings her own gentle perspective. A tea like “Spring is approaching” reflects her poetic sensibility, inspired by early Wuyi spring days she longs to share with city dwellers seeking peace.
In 2024, Liu Yuan was recognized as an official inheritor of intangible cultural heritage in Wuyi Rock Tea. Together, they blend precision and poetry, fire and flow.
On summer days, you might still find three generations of the Liu family by the old Xingcun tea wharf—the historical gateway where Da Hong Pao first sailed to the world. Liu Dexi watches the water and reflects: “How do we pass on this 300-year-old craft in a fast-changing world? Can Wuyi tea, like before, go even further”
To him, being a “gentleman” means more than technical mastery. It is a lifetime pursuit of virtue through learning, integrity, and devotion. That’s how every leaf he crafts tells a new story — and meets its destined tea lover.
Featured Wuyi Rock Tea Selections by Master Liu Dexi
Experience the depth, character, and elegance of Wuyi rock tea through the signature creations of Master Liu Dexi. Each tea is handcrafted with traditional techniques and aged to perfection.
1. Tie Luohan (Iron Arhat)
Roasted with high fire and aged to reveal a deep mineral base with lingering floral aroma.
Flavor Profile: Bold, structured, with a clean roasted body and subtle sweetness.
Aging Potential: Improves with time; ideal for collectors.
Perfect For: Connoisseurs looking for a powerful and layered Rock tea.
2. Spring is approaching (春意浓)
A poetic creation by Liu Yuan, inspired by the early spring breeze of Wuyi.
Flavor Profile: Light floral aroma, soft minerality, refreshing and smooth.
Roasting Level: Medium-light roast.
Perfect For: Everyday tea lovers seeking elegance and clarity.
3. Da Hong Pao (Big Red Robe) – Heritage Reserve
Crafted from carefully selected mother bush varietals and roasted in the traditional method.
Flavor Profile: Rich, balanced, with a complex interplay of orchid notes, stone fruit, and lingering rock rhyme (岩韵).
Aging Potential: Excellent; evolves beautifully over time.
Perfect For: Those looking for a quintessential Wuyi tea experience.
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